Community mainstay reinvents itself.
By Hope S. Philbrick
After 14 years, Communitas Hospitality and executive chef Javier Viera have transformed Gilbert’s Café & Bar into G’s Midtown.
Billed as a “new American gastropub,” the new menu (which debuted December 7, 2013) promises “everyday comfort food with a modern, chef-driven twist” including “house-made creations and locally-sourced, fresh ingredients.” All good initiatives.
If, like me, you were a fan of Gilbert’s, you’ll be pleased to discover that the signature chocolate soufflé remains on the menu. So order dessert first—the kitchen appreciates the heads-up plus it takes awhile to cook—and then figure out what else sounds tempting. Most options are Southern; a few dishes have Mediterranean influences.
The iron skillet mac and steak may be the best bet: A guest favorite early after the restaurant unveiling, it offers enough food to satisfy for dinner plus a lunch of leftovers. The macaroni and cheese is creamy (perhaps a bit salty) and the steak cooked to order. Especially on a cold night, it’s hearty and satisfying.
For its relaxed ambiance and ethnic cuisine, I preferred Gilbert’s. But, especially if you had no comparison, there’s nothing to complain about here: Servers are attentive, space cozy, energy upbeat, and food up to par. The owners are savvy restaurateurs with other successful restaurants (including Hobnob and 10th & Piedmont), so the change must have been motivated by its guests and neighborhood.
Change can be risky. The future will reveal whether or not it’s a good thing.
219 10th Street
Atlanta GA 30309