Now open at The Battery in Cobb County, Georgia.
By Hope S. Philbrick
Sometimes, I play a little game in my head: If I were to open a restaurant, what would I include on the menu?
In case you haven’t guessed by now, I adore food and cooking. But I’m a writer, so even if my friends and family seem to appreciate my cooking, odds are I’ll continue to spend more time behind the computer than the stove.
When I learned that the folks behind Garden & Gun magazine had opened a restaurant, I understood the fantasy, but wow! Is this the first magazine in the history of time to open a restaurant? I don’t know, but it seems like quite a leap. So of course I had to check it out.
The Garden & Gun Club, the first restaurant by Garden & Gun, opened in April at The Battery (which is by the Braves stadium—so, to avoid crowds, I purposefully planned my visit at a time other than game day).
The menu features favorite Southern dishes by the James Beard Award-winning team of Chef Mike Lata (of FIG in Charleston, S.C.) and Chef Adam Nemirow (of The Ordinary in Charleston, S.C.). Garden & Gun magazine is also based in Charleston, so it’s a surprise that the team’s inaugural restaurant is based in Atlanta, but lucky for us Georgians!
The main dining room in the restaurant feels like an old gentleman’s parlor, a place to light a cigar after a day spent riding horseback behind your team of hounds, minus the smoke. The décor is a mix of old and new, with combos like mismatched antique utensils and custom-made logo-ed plates. You can dine here wearing jeans (because, baseball) but you’ll also fit right in if wearing a seersucker suit.
The somewhat magical thing about this place is that it feels like Charleston, not Atlanta. It’s a bit more old school-y, a bit more aristocrat-y, a bit more classically “Southern” than most restaurants in this city, and yet it’s also carried off with a bit of tongue-in-cheekiness that helps it feel warm and contemporary, like it’s in on the joke about what “Southern” may mean to outsiders.
This is no place to skip getting a cocktail: The bartenders know what they’re doing and an impressive list of whiskeys stands at the ready to complement the Southern fare. Sure, you can get other types of booze, too, but why pass up the bourbon or rye?
As for food, you can’t possibly go wrong: Order whatever the heck looks and sounds good to you on the menu. Every dish we sampled was beautifully presented, cooked to perfection, and offered well-matched, well-balanced flavors.
Service is attentive. Though initially the amount of ice in my water glass seemed stingy, as the evening progressed I found an ally who kept delivering a fresh supply by the glassful.
Whatever you do, save room for dessert. Get the cake of the day, whatever it is. During our visit it was chocolate cake with peanut butter frosting and I’m not exaggerating when I say it was the gosh darn best cake I’ve ever eaten in my entire life. Truly. The cake was moist, the frosting smooth with a just-right amount of sugary sweetness, and flavors were in perfect balance. I reluctantly shared the piece with my husband and still regret it a little bit.
Bottom Line: Garden & Gun Club is a home run.
Garden & Gun Club
2605 Circle 75 Parkway
Atlanta GA 30339
– Photos © HSP Media LLC
Featured products, services and/or travel arrangements may have been complimentary in part or in full; this affords the research opportunity but does not sway opinion. Thanks to Garden & Gun Club for hosting our visit.