By Hope S. Philbrick
As I sat patiently in the dining room waiting for my order to arrive, a lady pushed open the heavy wooden door to Indaco, which is located on King Street in Charleston, South Carolina, and stepped from the bright warm sunlight into the air-conditioned wood-accented dining room.
“Phew,” she said as she wiped her brow. Who knows how many times she’d strolled up and down that famed street, but the number of bags she carried suggested that she’d had a successful shopping day.
“We ate dinner her last night,” she told the hostess. Her dining companion was nowhere in sight. “We enjoyed it so much that we want to eat here again tonight.”
If there’s a better endorsement for a restaurant, I’ve yet to hear it.
Indaco serves what’s billed as “rustic Italian cuisine” prepared by Chef Kevin Getzewichz. The menu offers wood-fired pizzas, housemade salumi and cured sausages, salads, pastas and entrées like roast chicken, wreckfish, lamb belly and pork.
I opted to start with the seasonal twist on caprese salad, which added cantaloupe to the tomato and mozzarella standard and topped the whole thing off with some crunchy oats in addition to basil. Though unexpected, the sweet-skewing combination worked.
The crab saffron pasta was a delicate balance of sweet and savory.
Admittedly, I had limited tastes from this menu. But I’d describe this food as less “rustic” more “creative,” less authentic Italian than Italian-inspired.
There are clear Italian influences and commitments: The wine list focuses on Italian varietals and there’s a Negroni cocktail on tap.
The service is impeccable. My server clearly was an informed foodie with genuine enthusiasm for the dishes she described.
Indaco can surprise your taste buds. You may find it weird. Or you may like it so much you’ll want to come back as soon as possible. Either way, it’s worth a try.
526 King Street
Charleston SC 29403
843.872.6828 / 843.727.1228
Open for dinner 5-10 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 5-11 p.m. Friday & Saturday, and 5-10 p.m. Sunday. Happy hour 5-7 p.m. Monday through Friday.
Complimentary valet from 5 p.m. to close, Monday through Friday.
Odds of Encountering Children: Possible, but low. I saw none during my weekday visit.
– Photos © HSP Media LLC
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